I planned my current book tour in Michigan to span most of the summer,  so my wife, Sara, and I made the decision to drive from San Diego to Detroit–stopping in veg restaurants the entire distance.  Every chef fantasizes about doing this, but most of us don’t get the opportunity because we’re so busy.  Because of time limitations, we had to pick and choose restaurant destinations, sacrificing key veg cities, such as Los Angeles, Portland, Seattle and New York–but this was not to be a contest. It was also a chance to experience how veg awareness has been developing outside of the big cities.

After working with farmers, farmers markets and restaurants in both Detroit and San Diego, I was looking forward to feeling the pulse of the modern food revolution across the country in order to better understand its progress and how it has affected the American landscape.  Our plan was to video each encounter and document the trail of meals.

As we prepared to head out, I thought about San Diego’s limited number of specialized veg restaurants.  For an area known for healthy lifestyles, the lack of healthy plant-based restaurants never ceases to amaze me. However, a macrobiotic restaurant, Cafe De Luz, is planning to open in the North Park area this summer and I have hope that Peace Pies, with their delicious raw vegan cuisine, will recover to their former glory.  The real veg gems of San Diego are the fifty-plus farmers markets with a variety of raw and vegan options nestled among the fresh bounty of San Diego County.

One of our inspirations for making the trip was a recent visit to the Bay area, which has a reputation for the best veg food in the country.  We had high expectations and found the food to be good and in some cases, very good.  Nothing entranced us or made us want to steer a hundred miles out of our way.

Granted, we missed going to Ubuntu in Napa, which has an outstanding reputation, but hit almost all the vegan and raw places of note: Herbivore, Millennium and, what turned out to be our favorite, Cafe Gratitude.

On the way back to San Diego we stopped at The Veggie Grill in Irvine–a well thought out concept and a worthwhile stop if passing by.

We have had many meals at Native Foods in Costa Mesa and found it to be a satisfactory pit stop or meeting place, but were never swept off our feet.  The one place which recently impressed me way beyond expectations is Au Lac, located in Fountain Valley, south of Los Angeles.  This cafe, with it’s Humanese cuisine has a magical feel and delicious food which is energizing–well worth going out of your way.

First Leg Arizona Part One

The departure day arrived and, with the SUV packed to the brim with everything needed for a book tour and food demonstrations, we headed east on US 8.  Our first stop was Natures Express in Yuma, Arizona.  This is vegan fast food in a Mexican border town, an area full of desert ranches and meat eaters.  While their focus is fast food variations on meat dishes, it was a positive experience.  We ordered two sandwiches, first the lentil burger with mushrooms, which had good texture, but a plain flavor–it could benefit from some Mediterranean or Middle Eastern spicing.  Second was the “South of the Border” burger with their Chick-un patty.  This sandwich had all the flavor and spiciness one would expect from a town near the border and we really enjoyed it.  We were very grateful for this vegan sustenance in the middle of vegetarian nowhere, which propelled us all the way to Phoenix.

The next day we headed to Fresh Mint in Scottsdale, an unassuming cafe in a tidy little strip mall.  Knowing we were to eat at two restaurants in Scottsdale, we ordered lightly and shared both dishes.  We ordered the Cucumber Rolls filled with tofu, raw matchstick vegetables and fresh mint leaves.  This was served with a flavorful peanut dipping sauce.  The beautiful presentation and bright flavors of the raw vegetables and mint were perfectly complimented by the peanut sauce.

We followed it with Kung Pao Soy Chicken, a traditionally flavored dish nicely supported by brown rice and assorted steamed vegetables.  According to owner Mai Ly, the beautiful presentations and delicious flavors were inspired by Buddhist vegetarian traditions.  The entire experience was wonderful and Mai Ly and her husband Michael Beck, impressed us with their charm and wit.

Still in Scottsdale, our veg quest led us to Chakra4 Organic Herb & Tea House.

As soon as we entered, the smell of herbs enveloped us and the serene and healing atmosphere immediately put us at ease–I half expected a shoulder massage as I perused the menu.  We started the meal with their refreshing herbal iced tea of the day, followed by a Raw-vacado plate–a delicious nut-based avocado guacamole served with raw marinated crudite vegetables.

Next came the Veggie-Dilla, a vegan vegetable quesadilla with fresh vegetables, pinto beans and raw underpinnings of sun dried tomato-nut cheese.  This was accompanied by a Chipotle salsa and a green salad–our favorite dish of the journey so far.  The fresh-local-organic connection was obvious and the vitality of the dishes exploded on the palate in waves of delicious flavors.  To top it off, we ordered a slice of Chocolate Ganache Pie for the road.  Sara was so taken with its rich flavor and creamy texture, I barely had a chance to start the car before it was gone. The food at Chakra4 was provocative and satiated all the senses.  If I were within a hundred miles, this would be a worthy detour.  We breathed a sigh of relief, knowing we had several hours to muster up an appetite for our next culinary stop in Sedona.

This first leg of the tour was inspiring.  We were beginning to see that a shift had occurred in public perceptions and awareness.  On a small scale, vegan restaurants are gaining mainstream acceptance and adding new dimensions of flavor and health to local restaurant scenes.

See the video here

Please check out the next installment where we experience the best of Sedona, Arizona.

If you have suggestions, please email or write me on Facebook or comment here.

Sedona Part Two

Feeling rather full after stopping at two delightful veg restaurants in Scottsdale, we headed north toward ChocolaTree Cafe in Sedona, Arizona, a mostly raw cafe with an awesome reputation. The journey through the mountains was breathtaking.

The landscape slowly transitioned from a desert-scape dotted with saguaro cacti to a high mesa semi-desert grassland with clumps of riparian forests and a rocky balsatic plateau of dormant volcano rock. The road danced around the Agua Fria river creating dramatic landscapes and vistas.

We diverted off the main highway to the old mining town of Jerome, now an artist colony and tourist destination.

Around the corner and down a level from a biker gathering at the local saloon, we discovered a restored early 20th century diner-style restaurant which originally served the Chinese mine workers in an era of oppressive segregation. This unfortunate history explained why the diner was tucked away and out of sight from the main street.  Today, the location is appreciated for its spectacular, panoramic view and the new owners are committed to working with local farmers to supply fresh produce for the restaurant, which was probably done when it first opened over 100 years ago.   A nice addition to a meat-centric tourist town like Jerome.

As the sun was reaching for the horizon, we meandered down the mountain and continued our journey into Sedona. Every time I come here, I am in awe of the incredible red rock formations which frame the town. This time, with the intense pre-dusk light, the town looked like it was surrounded by a large, gold picture frame. Sedona is known for connections to planetary energies–a place to commune with natural forces and to recharge. I often wondered why the much-touted spiritual connections bypass food as a vehicle of awareness–this culinary adventure turned that around.

We arrived at ChocolaTree just as the setting sun made the red rocks surrounding Sedona glow like burning embers. The outside of the restaurant building and patio was adorned with handcrafted art pieces and paintings.

Walking in, we were greeted by a four foot tall Shiva Lingam from India, the centerpiece of this warm and cozy restaurant. Sincere smiles, attached to earthy faces, beamed behind the counter. We were encouraged to peruse the offerings of both packaged and fresh menu items.

While ChocolaTree puts most of their energy into raw living food, they offer some cooked vegan dishes. The Curried Spring Roll and the Raw Falafels were recommended as appetizers. We also ordered the All Raw Wrap and the cooked Ethiopian Collard Greens on Quinoa for entrees.

We walked to the open-air garden courtyard, past the retail displays of crystals, essential oils, talismans and artwork. Tables surrounded a beautiful old tree strung with delicate lights. Adjacent to the seating area was a kitchen garden full of borage, amaranth, basil, oregano and many other scented herbs in various states of growth and harvest. The patio held magical appeal and gave us something to ponder and discuss.

The food arrived in a timely manner and we applauded the suggested Curried Spring Rolls–we consumed them in a flash. The Falafels were a good attempt, but had not been dehydrated quite enough. The All Raw Wrap was more like a salad–leafy greens and vegetables in a seasoned wrap with a light dressing.

The Ethiopian Collard Greens on Quinoa didn’t look appealing on the plate, but once I tasted it, I was hooked. The collard greens, cooked to a buttery perfection, had a touch of fresh ginger and were topped with crumbled kale chips, giving it a slight crunch. The bed of quinoa was the perfect match, making the dish a delicious and sensuous home run. After dinner, we met owner Jen Moore and discussed mutual acquaintances and what a cafe like hers can do for a community.

We polished off the meal with a piece of Pecan Pie–raw and creamy with a fantastic maple-like flavor. It left us practically speechless. Wow! We left with a few packaged food items and, finding all rooms booked in Sedona, proceeded toward Flagstaff.

The meal was not only fulfilling, but, energizing. We stopped on top of the mountain and gazed at stars so profuse the sky seemed white. We discussed the power of food, how it can create change in society, the quality of life and spiritual pursuits. Perfect meal, perfect night…

Next stop:  Santa Fe and Taos, New Mexico.

If you have suggestions, please email or write me on Facebook or comment here.

Here is my version of The ChocolaTree’s Ethiopian Collard Greens:

Ethiopian Collard Greens

Abesha Gomen
Serves 4 

2 bunches (six cups) collard greens, stemmed
1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
1 cup red onions, finely diced
1 teaspoon garlic, minced
1 1/2 tablespoons ginger root, finely minced
1 teaspoon green chilies, minced
¼ cup red bell pepper, finely diced
2 cardamom pods
1 inch cinnamon stick

¼ teaspoon fenugreek seeds
2 cups water
½ teaspoon sea salt
¼ teaspoon fresh ground black pepper

Remove the spines from the collard greens, then steam until dark green or medium tender. Cool and slice into thin strips. In a saucepan on medium heat, add olive oil, onions, garlic, ginger root, green chilies and red pepper. Cover and cook for 5 minutes. Wrap cardamom, cinnamon and fenugreek in a small cheesecloth bag and tie off. Add collard greens, water, sea salt and black pepper to pan. Submerge the cheesecloth bag in the pan. Cover and simmer for 20 minutes or until the water is almost cooked out. Remove cheesecloth bag.

Red Quinoa

Makes 2 ½ cups 

2 cups water
1 teaspoon sea salt
1 teaspoon extra virgin olive oil
1 cup red quinoa
1 bay leaf

In a 2 quart saucepan, bring water to a boil and add remaining ingredients. Cover and simmer for 15 to 20 minutes, until all the water is absorbed. Remove from heat.

Kale Chips

3 cups Lacinato Kale leaves
1 teaspoon extra virgin olive oil
½ teaspoon sea salt
½ teaspoon mild curry powder
2 teaspoons nutritional yeast flakes 

Preheat oven to 260 degrees F. Spine kale and cut into 2 inch by 3 inch pieces. In a medium-sized bowl, mix together all ingredients. Spread evenly on a parchment-lined baking sheet. Bake for 30 minutes.

Assembly:
Place collard green mixture on large serving platter and top with a bowl of quinoa . Sprinkle with kale chips. Serve hot.

Santa Fe to Boulder Part Three

with Anasazi Bean Enchilada Recipe

Day three of our veg restaurant tour from San Diego to Detroit began in beautiful Santa Fe, New Mexico, the oldest capital in the United States. It was Memorial Day and this unique city of all adobe-style buildings was full of tourists, musicians and artists enjoying the cloudless day.  Not far from the festive atmosphere of the old town center, was our destination, Body–a one-stop-shop with an organic restaurant, spa, yoga studio and clothing boutique.

Body’s calming atmosphere and enchanting decor set our expectations high. After exploring the various rooms, the popular yoga studio and the spa, we took our seats in the large, yet surprising empty, dining room.  Although there are numerous items for omnivores, there is a substantial vegan and raw offering. We ordered all raw and the food began to arrive shortly thereafter.

The coconut lemongrass soup, fresh and beautiful in color, was light and flavorful; unfortunately, the rest of our meal was not as exciting.  The wrap lacked flavor and was mushy, the pizza was too salty and had far too much tomato sauce and the dessert was simply passionless.  We were a bit surprised, considering the care the owners had taken to provide such a comprehensive facility to the residents of Santa Fe.

To be fair, our visit was a snapshot, only a glimpse at what was obviously a well-thought-out concept. It may be that they over-extended themselves to the point of having gaps in the details of the food.  It certainly deserves another try the next time I’m driving through Santa Fe.

We continued north to Taos, another remarkable old Spanish town and artist colony.  Entering this city made us feel as though we had stepped back in time.  It is located in a tributary valley off the Rio Grande and on its north side is the famous Taos Pueblo, said to have been built between 1000 and 1450 A.D..  Nearly 1900 people occupy the pueblo community today.

Surprisingly, as far as vegetarian offerings, Taos is a one horse town and that horse is called El Gamal--a very casual and artistic vegetarian cafe serving traditional Middle Eastern fare.  We ordered babaganoush, tabouli, falafels, salad and hummus–unfortunately, they had run out of chick peas and couldn’t prepare the hummus.  The food was fresh and flavorful and we were grateful for their effort.

Our meals in Santa Fe and Taos did not come close to our amazing experiences in Sedona and Scottsdale, but still were a marked improvement from our last trip a few years ago and good enough to get us through the Cimarron pass and north to Colorado.

Our next destination was in the foothills of the Rocky Mountains in one of the most liberal cities in Colorado–Boulder.  Known for its stunning setting and “hippie” appeal, it constantly acquires top rankings in health and quality of life. Leaf Vegetarian Restaurant is a small, upscale, jewel of a place located in the charming downtown area.  As we walked in, we were immediately taken with its beautiful decor, cleanliness and organization.

We began with a raw beet ravioli–a really stunning presentation, but, rather flavorless, relying entirely on the taste of the raw beets. Sara chose a delicious looking Mizuna salad with sea vegetables and I ordered Jamaican Jerk, tempeh over black rice with plantain chips, which was truly a work of art.

Although we appreciated the freshness and quality of the ingredients, the salad lacked pizazz. The Jamaican Jerk was heavy on tempeh, but was nicely balanced with black rice and good flavors.  We finished the meal with a peanut butter and chocolate vegan cheesecake, presented with impressive artistic flair, but it didn’t knock our socks off.

Leaf deserves another shot. They have worked hard to earn their wonderful reputation and are extremely conscientious about presentation, as well as providing a positive restaurant experience.  It would require several more visits for a proper review. Still, when a restaurant strives to achieve levels of gastronomic perfection, any misstep is unfortunate. Consistent culinary home-runs are a difficult thing to achieve, but a chef or owner’s personal attention increases the odds tremendously.

It was becoming apparent that veg restaurants in this country become great through vision and passion. With the heartland of the Midwest ahead of us, we continued to search for restaurants which define culinary perceptions in their local communities with dedication to quality of food and life through good ingredients, working with local farmers and using high quality organic products. This is especially true for plant-based restaurants where customers expect healing and life-enhancing characteristics on their plates. This attention-to-detail enables an everyday dining experience to be life changing.

Next time, we visit the heartland of America in Nebraska and Iowa to continue the discovery of the State of the Veg Union!

Inspired by our journey through the ancient desert lands of cliff-dwellers, pueblos and conquistadors, I created this Anasazi Bean Enchilada recipe to honor the rich traditions and sun-drenched history of the American Southwest.

 

The Great Plains Heartland Part Four

Traveling east, through the amber waves of grain, to Lincoln, Nebraska, on our San Diego to Detroit restaurant Tour, my wife Sara and I marveled as the Rocky Mountains disappeared into the ground and flattened into the Great Plains of the mid-west–the breadbasket of the country.

Over a century ago, way stations for the railroad system, which distributed grains, produce and farm products, were set up from coast to coast. These stations became distribution centers and agricultural hubs, standing out like sparkling jewels in corn and wheat fields when there was little else around.   Eventually, these became the urban centers, which were integral components for the westward expansion of America’s commodity food system.

We pulled into the historic Haymarket District of Lincoln, where the old rail and distribution system has been largely bypassed by 21st century modernization.  Thanks to local effort, many of the magnificent edifices from the late 19th and early 20th century are preserved and now function as cultural centers of the community.

In one of those old warehouse structures stands Maggie’s Vegetarian Cafe–an all-natural, from-scratch cafe using local and organic ingredients whenever possible.   It is very casual and charming with down-to-earth sensibility.

Owner Maggie Pleskac was in the kitchen and made our Spicy Hummus Wrap and Unfried Falafel Wrap, which we found to be filling and delicious with noticeably fresh ingredients.

On the walls were pictures of the local farmers who supply the cafe–Maggie told us which one provided each part of the sandwiches.  We left with renewed energy from a simple, yet satiating, meal and felt good about supporting a business that reveres the local farmers, who I view as the true heroes of the modern food revolution.

Omaha was our next stop.  This city still has many of the mansions and magnificent structures from the early 20th century.  Reminiscent of the elegant neighborhoods populated by the auto-barons of Detroit, these were the homes of cattle barons.  Omaha was one of the capitals of the early factory farming industry in America.

Ironically, McFosters Natural Kind Cafe is at the edge of this neighborhood.  The building looks like an old Tudor-style home, but was originally Skip’s Skelly Gas Station, one of the original service stations on the old Lincoln Highway.  Now re-incarnated as a natural foods restaurant, it fuels visitors with freshly-prepared food.  Although they serve seafood and free-range chicken, it reminded me of the old-school vegetarian cafes–down to earth, funky and colorful, with an expansive, but uncomplicated, menu.  Unfortunately, we had filled ourselves in Lincoln, so a salad and carrot juice were all we could manage–both were fresh and flavorful.  We hope to travel through Omaha again–this time with empty stomachs.

Our appetites returned that evening as we pulled into Iowa City, Iowa, a college town with a number of veg choices.  We chose The Red Avocado, an upscale, yet cozy, vegan restaurant in the lower level of a house near the university.  We began with a Cilantro-White Bean Dip garnished with toasted pepitas and fresh baked flatbread (check out my version of the recipe below).

This was followed by a Corn-Mushroom Soup which was creamy and savory.  The first entree was Corn Cakes with Shiitake Mushrooms and Tofu, a beautifully prepared dish with excellent flavors and textures.

Second was Gnocchi, properly light and fluffy–unfortunately, it was swimming in tomato sauce. Dessert was a chocolate truffle which we took to go because the restaurant was closing. Later, we discovered this to be the weak-link in the meal; however, the rest of the experience, including the great service, overcame any disappointment.  This was one of our favorite meals of the entire trip.

The heartlands of Nebraska and Iowa were a pleasant surprise.  We were heartened  to see the passion and commitment for local and organic foods as well as a relative abundance of plant-based options.

Next, in our quest to discover the state of the veg union, we visit a raw, culinary treasure in Downer’s Grove, Illinois.

Inspired by the Cilantro-White Bean appetizer at The Red Avocado in Iowa City, I created my own version to celebrate the heartlands of America and those good people who are making a difference.

 

White Bean Cilantro Dip

Makes 2 cups

1 ¼ cups cooked Cannellini beans

½ cup cilantro leaves, packed tight

½ teaspoon garlic, minced

2 tablespoons lemon juice

2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

½ teaspoon sea salt

2  tablespoons water

sprig of cilantro

1 tablespoon toasted pepitas (optional)

In a food processor, puree all ingredients.  Transfer to a bowl and garnish with a sprig of fresh cilantro and toasted pepitas.   Serve with bread or crackers.

The Borrowed Earth Cafe — Downers Grove, Illinois

The last segment of our San Diego to Detroit veg restaurant tour took us to the town of Downers Grove, a southern suburb of Chicago, where our destination,The Borrowed Earth Cafe, awaited.  This turned out to be a little gem–an oasis of delicious raw cuisine, with all the food prepared on-site and served with an efficiency that rivals fast food restaurants.

Owners Danny and Kathy Living’s passion for the raw cuisine they serve is evident through beautiful presentations, a magical environment and great humor–Danny had Sara in stitches the entire two hours we were there.

We began our meal with a wonderful creamy coconut and corn soup,

followed with a colorful sweet potato quesadilla exploding with vibrant flavors–each morsel felt like an indulgence.

Kathy recommended the special walnut-crusted green beans, her version of  “fried” green beans–raw and unfried.  She explained that she loves to experiment with comfort foods from her childhood to create raw, living versions which are then served at the cafe.  The dish was very satisfying and provocative with a nutty flavor and delicate crunch.

The finale was Out of this World Cheesecake and has made it to the top of our raw dessert list–Sara and I were practically fighting over the crumbs!

At the Borrowed Earth Cafe, we discovered the passion, talent and presentation we had been yearning for in our veg restaurant tour.  We left Downer’s Grove feeling great about the state of the veg union–not to mention, fully satiated and thoroughly entertained.

The last stop was our home turf of Detroit–a city in the budding stages of a veg renaissance with pockets of culinary passion and  a surprisingly large collection of veg cafes and farmers markets.

As we stuck our forks into the incomparable Inn Season Cafe salad, piled high with fresh, organic produce, nuts seeds, avocados and marinated onions, we couldn’t help but feel that there’s no place like home!