The word “taste” has multiple meanings. It is used simultaneously for what passes over the taste buds as well as a knack for appreciating finer things, whatever they may be. When we say someone has good taste, they have a discerning palate or discerning vision. Food is the key underlying nurturing ingredient in our daily lives. Good food stands out and those that can provide it, such as chefs, are treated like rock stars. The ancient Vedic wisdom tells us the tongue is the most difficult to control of all the senses. For many of us, food can become an addiction, taste overcomes a reasonable sense of quantity. It is inseparably attached to our emotions and, according to the mood, food tends to be consumed indiscriminately. With the modern consumer driven society, it has spiraled out of control to the point of people not even knowing what they are eating. The general public palate has de-evolutionized to the point of being centered on fat, salt, sugar and meat; the centerpieces of trade and empire since the beginning of the age of exploration. The last hundred years have also removed us from the earth. A much smaller percentage of people live close to the planet in a symbiotic way. We are on the brink of losing taste! Fortunately, a revolution in food is occurring on a societal level. With the organic farming industry at the forefront, many consumers are not accepting second best and are revolting with their pocket books. People want to be healthy and enjoy life. One of the key ingredients to attaining optimum vitality is discovering good taste through the bounty of the earth and the cultures that have been close to it. This is one reason why traditional cuisines have experienced a renaissance style revival in many urban centers. Indian, Italian, French, Chinese, Greek, Ethiopian, Thai, Lebanese, Persian, Moroccan and many others have become part of out culinary dialect. It is an exciting time when we can choose to “travel” to, and have choices with, many cuisines of the world.
Two days after Thanksgiving and the market is bustling. Christmas greens and decorations are infiltrating the market, but there is still plenty of produce as the first hard freeze was only a week ago. With limited time I was only able to talk to a few people, mostly in the northeast corner. Cinzori Farms had red and yellow beets, 3 kinds of kale, tat tsoi, cabbages, onions and a plethora of heirloom squashes. Don told me about his daughter Janie’s travels in New Zealand where she was working on organic farms for 6 months. Shelly Mazur had fresh chanterelles mushrooms and the amazing dried porcinis from the Italian Alps. Jim Burda featured Michigan cranberries, homemade granola, cherry baked goods and Denise’s incredible fruit jams. Rounding the bend, Don Van Houtte’s booths featured magnificent displays of flowering kale towering over autumn staples of onions, potatoes, chiles and, of course, squash. Across the aisle, Busy Bee Orchards were still going strong with what looked like 6 or 7 varieties of apples. I stopped in to see Heather Rosencrantz at Dirty Girl Farms to look at spices before landing at Peter Uhlianuk’s booth to jokingly harass him about having paper whites so early.
Peter’s brother George had a colorful display of holiday foliage. We always enjoy calling out each other’s name. Fittingly, “George” means “farmer” in Greek. On the way out, I wanted to catch Jim Van Den Berg before the season was over and was surprised to see he still had red leaf lettuce. Jim said they would be at the market another 2 weeks or so. I expect he will be selling carrots mostly.
It was a blustery rainy day in autumn and the weather was starting to change from cool to icy. We found ourselves on the eastside in Grosse PointeÂ cruising for a late lunch, so we stopped at The Sprout House, a small natural food grocery and deli. Our expectations were simple and we knew the food was trustable—good organic ingredients and vegetarian oriented. Sara and I ordered the Mediterranean Lentil Soup, Lemony Petit French Lentil Soup, a Mediterranean Tofu Sandwich and a Carrot-Apple-Ginger Juice. Everything was flavorful and balanced with not too much garlic, herb or oil as is often the case in commercial food. The lentil soups were distinct with the Mediterranean Lentil thick and rich with tomato while the French Lentil had just enough lemon and herb to satiate. The sandwich had a vegan black olive mayo, baked tofu patty and fresh organic greens on organic Avalon Bakery bread. Easy to eat, good flavor and great texture made for a very enjoyable sandwich. We sat down at one of two small tables in the front of the store to enjoy the food. The affable server brought my carrot-apple-ginger juice to us. It was great—freshly made and thirst-quenching. During previous visits with friends, the small dining area was a social hub for the neighborhood. Times like these remind me that the Detroit area has a wonderfully vibrant and aware community. The Sprout House in Grosse Pointe Park has been in business since 1980 when Bonnie Breidenbach first opened it. Just before we opened Inn Season CafÃ©, Bonnie outbid my offer for the Yellow Bean Cafe, a hole in the wall soy foods deli on Mack, where she started teaching about and serving Macrobiotic foods. After a couple of moves and a few other owners, The Sprout House became a neighborhood institution. Camaraderie between Inn Season Cafe and The Sprout House was always there, especially when second owner Muriel had it. We shared employees, stories and took care of each other. Today, it was encouraging to see the standards of health and organics still being maintained by the current owners. I applaud their efforts and it is worth a stop when in the area.
The Sprout House 15233 Kercheval St, Grosse Pointe Park Michigan 48230 Tel: 313-331-3200
Sara and I had lunch at Inn Season Cafe on Friday. We do not get there as often as we like, our life in Birmingham seems far away even though it is only five miles. The food was excellent. I had a wonderfully fresh carrot-apple-ginger juice with a flavorful potato-dill soup. Sara had the chili, good as always. We shared the Barbecued Seitan Sandwich and found it to be balanced, without the rubbery texture wheat gluten often has. The service was great, especially since we were doted on by our longtime friends Jenny, Amber and Jennifer. It has been over five years since we sold the Cafe and it is exciting to see the restaurant well run, busy and successful. Kudos to Chef Thomas and Nick for keeping it up as a vibrant centerpiece in the Royal Oak restaurant community.
I am currently mulling over the final edits of the Inn Season Cookbook (working title) and look forward to the day when it is for sale at the restaurant and bookstores. After all these years there is light at the end of the tunnel! The book covers the the period from when we first opened the cafe in 1981 to when I sold it in July, 2002.
Inn Season Cafe
500 East Fourth Street, Royal Oak, MI 48067
royal-oak-03-2006-053.avi < Video of Jeanie
I first met Robert Taylor in India in 1975. We both cooked at a temple in Vrndavan, Uttar Pradesh. In a twist of destiny we both ended up in the Detroit area. Robert met Jeanie twelve years ago and had been inseparable since. Robert is an astrologer and natural performer. Jeanie wrote a small, but potent book on positive affirmations and shared it with anyone in her path. Together, they became local television celebrities with their respective programs on channel 5 in Grosse Pointe, Michigan. We did a number of shows together about my restaurant at the time (Inn Season Cafe) food and spirituality.
Jeanie’s positive disposition was infectious. Whenever we spent time together, I would depart feeling spiritually uplifted. She was a unique soul. The last TV show we did together was a tour of our Royal Oak Fifth Street project, a traditional California Craftsman home. As a twist, when we entered the kitchen, I gave a short cooking demonstration, tying the home to a natural and organic lifestyle and we recently discussed doing the same with the current project just before she fell ill. Even though we occasionally saw each other, Jeanie was the kind of person who left a lasting impression. Her spirit and work inspires us to teach and share without pre-qualification. Robert and Jeanie are the kind of people one rarely meets in a lifetime and whenever we visited together it was as if there had been no lapse of time. I consider there friendship an honor, cherish the memories and look forward to assisting Robert to carry on Jeanie’s legacy. Together, they made the community a better place. With her passing, her presence in our hearts will encourage us to continue.
“Let us never forget that the cultivation of the earth is the most important labor of man. Man may be civilized in some degree without great progress in manufactures and with little commerce with his distant neighbors. But without the cultivation of the earth, he is, in all countries, a savage. Until he gives up the chase and fixes himself in some place, and seeks a living from the earth, he is a roaming barbarian. When tillage begins, other arts follow. The farmers, therefore, are the founders of civilization.
– Daniel Webster
From the word nurture, we see that to nourish is to replenish the needs of the body, mind and spirit. Food is integral to this process of life. The cycle of life is dependent on food whether it is sunlight, of the earth, water or air. Eating influences every cell, the quality of life and our attitudes and affects the body’s electro-magnetic pulse, thus the balance of chi or life force. Chemically, our moods and emotions are triggered. Perceptually, our life is influenced by presentation, environment and flavors. How we eat changes how food is digested and thus alters the level of nourishment. Nourishing ourselves with food is fundamental to life. How we respect it, along with how we eat, changes the qualtiy of life accordingly.
The meal can be elaborate, with everything thought of and in its place at the right time. More often, the beauty of the well prepared meal lies in the art of simplicity. Each flavor and texture speaks to the palate. The aroma, sight, touch, taste and sizzle come together in a harmonious symphony where every note and instrument is distinct.
Every living being has an intimate and nurturing relationship with food. Discovering the nuances and subtleties of this relationship is one of life’s great passions. In itself, food becomes a tool of communication through creative expression and sharing. Over the centuries, food preparation evolved from a basic necessity to become the heart of every household. Through globalization and economic development, the general focus of food preparation has moved to the public forum of restaurants and professional chefs. Previously food itself was a currency, now it takes money to have food. This has changed the selfless dynamic of a simple culinary exchange. My culinary journey has been centered around rekindling this almost transcendent experience and sharing it with whoever I come in contact with. Food is beyond politics, above hate and certainly an instrument of awareness in life. Welcome to my world.
Cooking beautiful food does not require a degree or years of experience. Nature has provided plenty of enchanting and gorgeous foodstuffs. To start, a trip to a farm, market or grocery store can be an inspiring adventure. Each vegetable has a unique personality, formed by a specific combination of water, soil, sun and even moonlight. Just as every person is unique, each vegetable has an individual fingerprint. Other ingredients have enticing characteristics as well. The greenish hue of extra virgin olive oil, a bin of grains like rice, wheat berries, barley or millet; Spices like the reddish hue of black mustard seeds, green cardamom pods, bright red of paprika, smooth bark of cinnamon, shocking yellow of turmeric and pellet shaped perfection of whole coriander; Herbs such as the crisp edges of fresh mint leaves, the evergreen woodsy rosemary, the delicate strands of fresh dill and the sensual leaves of fresh Genovese basil. Food entices the mind to imagine possibilities of cooking and eating. The attraction can be almost carnal, evoking emotions and desires from deep within the psyche. This is why it is prudent to shop without the presence of hunger pangs!
A lenten tradition. The kitchen fills with aromas of cinnamon and toasted sesame and the sweet nutty flavor is irresistible.