The last segment of our San Diego to Detroit veg restaurant tour took us to the town of Downers Grove, a southern suburb of Chicago, where our destination,The Borrowed Earth Cafe, awaited.  This turned out to be a little gem–an oasis of delicious raw cuisine, with all the food prepared on-site and served with an efficiency that rivals fast food restaurants.

Owners Danny and Kathy Living’s passion for the raw cuisine they serve is evident through beautiful presentations, a magical environment and great humor–Danny had Sara in stitches the entire two hours we were there.

We began our meal with a wonderful creamy coconut and corn soup,

followed with a colorful sweet potato quesadilla exploding with vibrant flavors–each morsel felt like an indulgence.

Kathy recommended the special walnut-crusted green beans, her version of  “fried” green beans–raw and unfried.  She explained that she loves to experiment with comfort foods from her childhood to create raw, living versions which are then served at the cafe.  The dish was very satisfying and provocative with a nutty flavor and delicate crunch.

The finale was Out of this World Cheesecake and has made it to the top of our raw dessert list–Sara and I were practically fighting over the crumbs!

At the Borrowed Earth Cafe, we discovered the passion, talent and presentation we had been yearning for in our veg restaurant tour.  We left Downer’s Grove feeling great about the state of the veg union–not to mention, fully satiated and thoroughly entertained.

The last stop was our home turf of Detroit–a city in the budding stages of a veg renaissance with pockets of culinary passion and  a surprisingly large collection of veg cafes and farmers markets.

As we stuck our forks into the incomparable Inn Season Cafe salad, piled high with fresh, organic produce, nuts seeds, avocados and marinated onions, we couldn’t help but feel that there’s no place like home!

Traveling east, through amber waves of grain, to Lincoln, Nebraska, on our San Diego to Detroit restaurant tour, my wife Sara and I marveled as the Rocky Mountains disappeared into the ground and flattened into the Great Plains of the mid-west.

We pulled into the historic Haymarket District of Lincoln, where the old rail and distribution system has been largely bypassed by 21st century modernization.

Over a century ago, way stations for the railroad system, which distributed grains, produce and farm products, were set up from coast to coast. These stations became distribution centers and agricultural hubs, standing out like sparkling jewels in corn and wheat fields when there was little else around.  Eventually, these became the urban centers, which were integral components for the westward expansion of America’s commodity food system. Thanks to local efforts, many of the magnificent edifices from the late 19th and early 20th century are preserved and now function as cultural centers of the community.

In one of those old warehouse structures stands Maggie’s Vegetarian Cafe–an all-natural, from-scratch cafe using local and organic ingredients whenever possible.   It is very casual and charming with down-to-earth sensibility.

Owner Maggie Pleskac was in the kitchen and made our Spicy Hummus Wrap and Unfried Falafel Wrap, which we found to be filling and delicious with noticeably fresh ingredients.

On the walls were pictures of the local farmers who supply the cafe–Maggie told us which one provided each part of the sandwiches.  We left with renewed energy from a simple, yet satiating, meal and felt good about supporting a business that reveres the local farmers, who I view as the true heroes of the modern food revolution.

Omaha was our next stop.  This city still has many of the mansions and magnificent structures from the early 20th century.  Reminiscent of the elegant neighborhoods populated by the auto-barons of Detroit, these were the homes of cattle barons.  Omaha was one of the capitals of the early factory farming industry in America.

Ironically, McFosters Natural Kind Cafe is at the edge of this neighborhood.  The building looks like an old Tudor-style home, but was originally Skip’s Skelly Gas Station, one of the original service stations on the old Lincoln Highway.  Now re-incarnated as a natural foods restaurant, it fuels visitors with freshly-prepared food.  Although they serve seafood and free-range chicken, it reminded me of the old-school vegetarian cafes–down to earth, funky and colorful, with an expansive, but uncomplicated, menu.  Unfortunately, we had filled ourselves in Lincoln, so a salad and carrot juice were all we could manage–both were fresh and flavorful.  We hope to travel through Omaha again–this time with empty stomachs.

Our appetites returned that evening as we pulled into Iowa City, Iowa, a college town with a number of veg choices.  We chose The Red Avocado, an upscale, yet cozy, vegan restaurant in the lower level of a house near the university.  We began with a Cilantro-White Bean Dip garnished with toasted pepitas and fresh baked flatbread (check out my version of the recipe below).

This was followed by a Corn-Mushroom Soup which was creamy and savory.  Our first entree was Corn Cakes with Shiitake Mushrooms and Tofu, a beautifully prepared dish with excellent flavors and textures.

Second was Gnocchi, properly light and fluffy–unfortunately, it was swimming in tomato sauce. Dessert was a chocolate truffle which we took to go because the restaurant was closing. Later, we discovered this to be the weak-link in the meal; however, the rest of the experience, including the great service, overcame any disappointment.  This was one of our favorite meals of the entire trip.

Click Here For Video!

The heartlands of Nebraska and Iowa were a pleasant surprise.  We were heartened  to see the passion and commitment for local and organic foods as well as a relative abundance of plant-based options.

Next, in our quest to discover the state of the veg union, we visit a raw, culinary treasure in Downer’s Grove, Illinois.

Inspired by the Cilantro-White Bean appetizer at The Red Avocado in Iowa City, I created my own version to celebrate the heartlands of America and those good people who are making a difference.

White Bean Cilantro Dip

Click here for the recipe!

If you have questions or suggestions, please email or write me on Facebook or comment here.

with Anasazi Bean Enchilada Recipe

Day three of our veg restaurant tour from San Diego to Detroit began in beautiful Santa Fe, New Mexico, the oldest capital in the United States. It was Memorial Day and this unique city of all adobe-style buildings was full of tourists, musicians and artists enjoying the cloudless day.  Not far from the festive atmosphere of the old town center, was our destination, Body–a one-stop-shop with an organic restaurant, spa, yoga studio and clothing boutique.

Body’s calming atmosphere and enchanting decor set our expectations high. After exploring the various rooms, the popular yoga studio and the spa, we took our seats in the large, yet surprising empty, dining room.  Although there are numerous items for omnivores, there is a substantial vegan and raw offering. We ordered all raw and the food began to arrive shortly thereafter.

The coconut lemongrass soup, fresh and beautiful in color, was light and flavorful; unfortunately, the rest of our meal was not as exciting.  The wrap lacked flavor and was mushy, the pizza was too salty and had far too much tomato sauce and the dessert was simply passionless.  We were a bit surprised, considering the care the owners had taken to provide such a comprehensive facility to the residents of Santa Fe.

To be fair, our visit was a snapshot, only a glimpse at what was obviously a well-thought-out concept. It may be that they over-extended themselves to the point of having gaps in the details of the food.  It certainly deserves another try the next time I’m driving through Santa Fe.

We continued north to Taos, another remarkable old Spanish town and artist colony.  Entering this city made us feel as though we had stepped back in time.  It is located in a tributary valley off the Rio Grande and on its north side is the famous Taos Pueblo, said to have been built between 1000 and 1450 A.D..  Nearly 1900 people occupy the pueblo community today.

Surprisingly, as far as vegetarian offerings, Taos is a one horse town and that horse is called El Gamal--a very casual and artistic vegetarian cafe serving traditional Middle Eastern fare.  We ordered babaganoush, tabouli, falafels, salad and hummus–unfortunately, they had run out of chick peas and couldn’t prepare the hummus.  The food was fresh and flavorful and we were grateful for their effort.

Our meals in Santa Fe and Taos did not come close to our amazing experiences in Sedona and Scottsdale, but still were a marked improvement from our last trip a few years ago and good enough to get us through the Cimarron pass and north to Colorado.

Our next destination was in the foothills of the Rocky Mountains in one of the most liberal cities in Colorado–Boulder.  Known for its stunning setting and “hippie” appeal, it constantly acquires top rankings in health and quality of life. Leaf Vegetarian Restaurant is a small, upscale, jewel of a place located in the charming downtown area.  As we walked in, we were immediately taken with its beautiful decor, cleanliness and organization.

We began with a raw beet ravioli–a really stunning presentation, but, rather flavorless, relying entirely on the taste of the raw beets. Sara chose a delicious looking Mizuna salad with sea vegetables and I ordered Jamaican Jerk, tempeh over black rice with plantain chips, which was truly a work of art.

Although we appreciated the freshness and quality of the ingredients, the salad lacked pizazz. The Jamaican Jerk was heavy on tempeh, but was nicely balanced with black rice and good flavors.  We finished the meal with a peanut butter and chocolate vegan cheesecake, presented with impressive artistic flair, but it didn’t knock our socks off.

Leaf deserves another shot. They have worked hard to earn their wonderful reputation and are extremely conscientious about presentation, as well as providing a positive restaurant experience.  It would require several more visits for a proper review. Still, when a restaurant strives to achieve levels of gastronomic perfection, any misstep is unfortunate. Consistent culinary home-runs are a difficult thing to achieve, but a chef or owner’s personal attention increases the odds tremendously.

It was becoming apparent that veg restaurants in this country become great through vision and passion. With the heartland of the Midwest ahead of us, we continued to search for restaurants which define culinary perceptions in their local communities with dedication to quality of food and life through good ingredients, working with local farmers and using high quality organic products. This is especially true for plant-based restaurants where customers expect healing and life-enhancing characteristics on their plates. This attention-to-detail enables an everyday dining experience to be life changing.

Click Here For Video

Next time, we visit the heartland of America in Nebraska and Iowa to continue the discovery of the State of the Veg Union!

Click Here For Recipe

Inspired by our journey through the ancient desert lands of cliff-dwellers, pueblos and conquistadors, I created this Anasazi Bean Enchilada recipe to honor the rich traditions and sun-drenched history of the American Southwest.

Feeling rather full after stopping at two delightful veg restaurants in Scottsdale, we headed north toward ChocolaTree Cafe in Sedona, Arizona, a mostly raw cafe with an awesome reputation.  The journey through the mountains was breathtaking.

The landscape slowly transitioned from a desert-scape dotted with saguaro cacti to a high mesa semi-desert grassland with clumps of riparian forests and a rocky balsatic plateau of dormant volcano rock.  The road danced around the Agua Fria river creating dramatic landscapes and vistas.

We diverted off the main highway to the old mining town of Jerome, now an artist colony and tourist destination.

Around the corner from a popular biker gathering at the local saloon, we discovered an early 20th century diner which originally served the Chinese mine workers in an era of oppressive segregation. This unfortunate history explained why the diner was tucked away and out of sight from the main street.  Today, the location is appreciated for its spectacular panoramic view and the new owners are committed to working with local farmers to supply fresh produce for the restaurant, which was probably done when it first opened over 100 years ago.  A nice addition to a meat-centric tourist town like Jerome.

As the sun was reaching for the horizon, we meandered down the mountain and continued our journey into Sedona.  Every time I come here, I am in awe of the incredible red rock formations which frame the town. This time, with the intense pre-dusk light, the town looked like it was surrounded by a large, gold picture frame.  Sedona is known for connections to planetary energies–a place to commune with natural forces and to recharge.  I often wondered why the much-touted spiritual connections bypass food as a vehicle of awareness–this culinary adventure turned that around.

We arrived at ChocolaTree just as the setting sun made the red rocks surrounding Sedona glow like burning embers.  The outside of the restaurant building and patio was adorned with handcrafted art pieces and paintings.  Walking in, we were greeted by a four foot tall Shiva Lingam from India, the centerpiece of this warm and cozy restaurant.

We were encouraged to peruse the offerings of both packaged and fresh menu items.  While ChocolaTree puts most of their energy into raw living food, they offer some cooked vegan dishes.  The Curried Spring Roll and the Raw Falafels were recommended as appetizers.  We also ordered the All Raw Wrap and the cooked Ethiopian Collard Greens on Quinoa for entrees.

We walked to the open-air garden courtyard, past the retail displays of crystals, essential oils, talismans and artwork.  Tables surrounded a beautiful old tree strung with delicate lights.  Adjacent to the seating area was a kitchen garden full of borage, amaranth, basil, oregano and many other scented herbs in various states of growth and harvest.   The patio held  magical appeal and gave us something to ponder and discuss.

The food arrived in a timely manner and we applauded the suggested Curried Spring Rolls–we consumed them in a flash.  The Falafels were a good attempt, but had not been dehydrated quite enough.  The All Raw Wrap was more like a salad–leafy greens and vegetables in a seasoned wrap with a light dressing.

The Ethiopian Collard Greens on Quinoa didn’t look appealing on the plate, but once I tasted it, I was hooked. The collard greens, cooked to a buttery perfection, had a touch of fresh ginger and were topped with crumbled kale chips, giving it a slight crunch.  The bed of quinoa was the perfect match, making the dish a delicious and sensuous home run.  After dinner, we met owner Jen Moore and discussed mutual acquaintances and what a cafe like hers can do for a  community.  We polished off the meal with a piece of Pecan Pie–raw and creamy with a fantastic maple-like flavor.  It left us practically speechless.  Wow!  We left with a few packaged food items and, finding all rooms booked in Sedona, proceeded toward Flagstaff.

The meal was not only fulfilling, but, energizing.  We stopped on top of the mountain and gazed at stars so profuse the sky seemed white.  We discussed the power of food, how it can create change in society, the quality of life and spiritual pursuits.  Perfect meal, perfect night…

Please check out our next travels through dust storms and dessert to reach Santa Fe and Taos, New Mexico.

To see the entire Veg Tour as it unfolds, read more here…

If you have suggestions, please email or write me on Facebook or comment here.

Here is my version of The ChocolaTree’s  Ethiopian Collard Greens:

Ethiopian Collard Greens

with Red Quinoa and Kale Chips

Click Here For The Recipe

I planned my current book tour in Michigan to span most of the summer,  so my wife, Sara, and I made the decision to drive from San Diego to Detroit–stopping in veg restaurants the entire distance.  Every chef fantasizes about doing this, but most of us don’t get the opportunity because we’re so busy.  Because of time limitations, we had to pick and choose restaurant destinations, sacrificing key veg cities, such as Los Angeles, Portland, Seattle and New York–but this was not to be a contest. It was also a chance to experience how veg awareness has been developing outside of the big cities… Read entire intro

First Leg in Arizona

The departure day arrived and, with the SUV packed to the brim with everything needed for a book tour and food demonstrations, we headed east on US 8. Our first stop was Natures Express in Yuma, Arizona. This is vegan fast food in a Mexican border town, an area full of desert ranches and meat eaters. While their focus is fast food variations on meat dishes, it was a positive experience. We ordered two sandwiches, first the lentil burger with mushrooms, which had good texture, but a plain flavor–it could benefit from some Mediterranean or Middle Eastern spicing. Second was the “South of the Border” burger with their Chick-un patty. This sandwich had all the flavor and spiciness one would expect from a town near the border and we really enjoyed it. We were very grateful for this vegan sustenance in the middle of vegetarian nowhere, which propelled us all the way to Phoenix.

The next day we headed to Fresh Mint in Scottsdale, an unassuming cafe in a tidy little strip mall. Knowing we were to eat at two restaurants in Scottsdale, we ordered lightly and shared both dishes. We ordered the Cucumber Rolls filled with tofu, raw matchstick vegetables and fresh mint leaves. This was presented with a flavorful peanut dipping sauce. The beautiful presentation and bright flavors of the raw vegetables and mint were perfectly complimented by the peanut sauce.

We followed it with Kung Pao Soy Chicken, a traditionally flavored dish nicely supported by brown rice and assorted steamed vegetables. According to owner Mai Ly, the beautiful presentations and delicious flavors were inspired by Buddhist vegetarian traditions. The entire experience was wonderful and Mai Ly and her husband Michael Beck, impressed us with their charm and wit.

Still in Scottsdale, our veg quest led us to Chakra4 Organic Herb & Tea House.

As soon as we entered, the smell of herbs enveloped us and the serene and healing atmosphere immediately put us at ease–I half expected a shoulder massage as I perused the menu. We started the meal with their refreshing herbal iced tea of the day, followed by a Raw-vacado plate–a delicious nut-based avocado guacamole served with raw marinated crudite vegetables.

Next came the Veggie-Dilla, a vegan vegetable quesadilla with fresh vegetables, pinto beans and raw underpinnings of sun dried tomato-nut cheese. This was accompanied by a Chipotle salsa and a green salad–our favorite dish of the journey so far. The fresh-local-organic connection was obvious and the vitality of the dishes exploded on the palate in waves of delicious flavors. To top it off, we ordered a slice of Chocolate Ganache Pie for the road. Sara was so taken with its rich flavor and creamy texture, I barely had a chance to start the car before it was gone. The food at Chakra4 was provocative and satiated all the senses. If I were within a hundred miles, this would be a worthy detour. We breathed a sigh of relief, knowing we had several hours to muster up an appetite for our next culinary stop in Sedona.

This first leg of the tour was inspiring. We were beginning to see that a shift had occurred in public perceptions and awareness. On a small scale, vegan restaurants are gaining mainstream acceptance and adding new dimensions of flavor and health to local restaurant scenes.

See the video here 

Please check out the next installment where we experience the best of Sedona, Arizona.

If you have suggestions, please email or write me on Facebook or comment here.

For the entire travelblog click here…

Amber Poupore was one the most exceptional employees I had at Inn Season Cafe, wanting to learn everything about the restaurant business.  She started as a dishwasher and viewed it as the beginning of a learning process.  She was a natural and soon had mastered every possible job in the restaurant, never shying away from the tough ones like washing dishes, scrubbing odd surfaces and taking care of customers.  Even after I sold the restaurant, she assisted me with classes I taught at Whole Foods while she continued to work part time at the cafe.  Eventually she became a certified Rudolph Steiner Waldorf teacher at the Detroit Waldorf School.

Since then, in addition to managing the dining room of Inn Season Cafe, she also studied the benefits of raw foods with David Wolfe, Regeneration Raw with Andrea McNinch and numerous other raw food related programs.  When I received the call that she had purchased the former Tasi Juice Bar in Royal Oak, I sensed the same confidence and spirit of working with the community she always had.

Within a few short weeks, the Cacao Tree Cafe took shape and blossomed under her direction.  Like a butterfly emerging from a cocoon, the beautiful, delicious and healing food has become the talk of the town.   The Cacao Tree, with their offerings of vegan, raw and living food, complements the nearby Inn Season Cafe’s cuisine.

Chefs Hitoko and Zack create beautiful and delicious confections, savory snacks and life-enhancing entrees.  The raw falafels, burritos, tacos and stir fries are full of flavor, vital nutritional energy and also very fulfilling.

This is the beginning of something special.  A New Year is here and the place to celebrate is the Cacao Tree Cafe!

The Cacao Tree Cafe Video

It was another beautiful day in San Diego and we decided to go to Nature’s Express for lunch.  Just a block away from Balboa Park it is a perfect location for a light meal after a stroll through the beautiful park.   In spite of a variety of past experiences restaurants here, we had a good feeling about it.

The location has had many incarnations in the last 20 years.  First, there was the iconic Kung Food, next, The Vegetarian Zone, then an empty building.  After a number of years,

seemingly as an answer to the whispered cocktail wishes of San Diegan vegetarians, Eatopia in OB moved into the space to resurrect the name Kung Food and proselytize their brand of veganism.  Heavy in soy based meat substitutes they served in an egalitarian format that removed service and placed all the food equally in hot and cold steam table bins.  We tried to forgo our culinary and societal egos each time, but it was difficult.  The hot food was not color-coded and, instead of presenting the food at the table, they had someone dish it out mess-hall style with the not so enthusiastic line of “what do ya want?” often difficult to hear through the blaring reggae music.  We would then trudge with tray in hand to the counter, place our plate on a scale and get financially judged for the amount of food we were about to eat.  They even opened a fast food drive-up window on the side of the building to serve a burger-and-fries style fast food.  This was an exciting alternative to try out.  Time and time again, we drove up to the window and had to park for 20 minutes before receiving our “fast food” order.  At that point, our undercooked fries and sit-in-your stomach burgers were anti-climatic.  We tried–really tried, but to no avail.  I do give them credit for giving it a go.  From my own experience I understand how much effort it takes to pull off a good restaurant.  Apparently there was some managerial disagreement with the owner and they left the location in a huff.  The next incarnation was a non-descript lacto-veg restaurant with table service.  It was just ok, with mediocre food and a heavy dose of dairy products.  Not our cup of tea.

A number of months ago, it was a pleasant surprise to discover Natures Express entered the picture and was entirely vegan.  I was particularly interested and managed to drag others to try it.  We started with the fast food window.  It was dressed up Boca burgers, wraps and fries that were passable.  Our 13 year old companion tea-bird (with her discerning palate) particularly enjoyed the fries.

The other day, we worked up the courage to enter the main restaurant.  It was nice inside, with a good aroma and enthusiastic people.  They still had the steam tables, but it was self serve and the food looked pretty good.  First was a simple, but very fresh looking salad bar, next was the cold raw food bar with eight or nine different preparations and the final bar was hot food with another eight or nine dishes.  All the food was colorful, identifiable (very important!) and well labeled.  I could also tell they use good ingredients on par with some of the best vegetarian restaurants.  The pricing was set up by the plate, which allowed light and heavy eaters to pay the same price and not feel embarrassment for copious helpings.  In addition to the food bars, a cooler with prepared sandwiches was nearby as well as the full menu from the drive through.  They also serve pizzas in the evenings.  The servers were enthusiastic, helpful and available.  “Mundo” especially went out of his way.  Our expectations were low, but the food was well prepared, nicely spiced and good to eat.  It was still egalitarian vegetarian, but they have done it right.

As a final note, noticed the Nature’s Express sign was painted over and the San Diego location has been removed from the Natures Express website.  Are we about to experience another incarnation?  A call to the restaurant confirmed they are indeed changing the name to Vegolution.  If the food stays this good, they could name it whatever they want and it would still be all right with me.

July 2010 Update:

The restaurant has evolved into the  fittingly titled Evolution Fast Food.   They help to fill a void in San Diego, which trails behind many other cites in dedicated vegan restaurants.

In ancient times, Georgians were the fabled Scythians Herodotus wrote about.  In modern times, most of what we hear about is strife and unfortunate news.  Some of the cultures in the area are renowned for their unusual longevity, such as the Abkazians,who have been victims of recent political power struggles, thus threatening the lifestyle which has made them a rare example on the planet.  But, what we rarely hear about is the strength of the people and the amazing cuisine that makes them that way.  As John Robbins points out in his book Healthy At 100, this cuisine is full of foraged wild greens, mushrooms, roots and tubers, along with seasonal cultivated vegetable crops and preserved foods.

The menu at Pomegranate starts with a warning of the experience to come:

“Once upon a time in the West … on the corner of El Cajon Boulevard and Louisiana Street, there appeared a Russian-Georgian restaurant.  Our food is robust, for heroes of the table, as our motto amply testifies: “Borscht by the bucket, vodka by the inch.” Our service is “Allegro ma non troppo!” As for parking, it is positively Darwinian:  survival of the fittest.”

Our experience at the restaurant did not disappoint as the food is flavorful and very generous in portions.  The walls are covered with graffiti by happy customers in languages from around the world.  One can imagine many of those scrawled quips were created under the influence of copious servings of vodka, Georgian beer or the special wines made from indigenous Georgian grapes.  The menu boasted 20 vegetarian items so we started with beautifully prepared vegan borscht, full of zest and a good texture.  Next, we grazed a salad sampler plate with a red cabbage slaw, a carrot slaw, a potato salad, a red bean salad and a green bean salad—all tasty.  We finished with a vegetable stroganoff and an eggplant “ratatouille” called Ajap Sandhali.  Both were outstanding.  Perhaps it was the spirit of the place that made everything so good, reminiscent of the family feasts I would enjoy in Crete with long tables of relatives.  Or, it could have been the feeling of authenticity–that we were in the midst of Georgians, celebrating their culture as participants, not just observers.  Whichever way I recall, it was a memorable dinner, for the food and the people.  I even took the opportunity to scrawl my own message, in honor of my father who loved this place.    On the way out, the owner and waitress both enthusiastically invited us to their Thanksgiving dinner, noting it will be home-style–family, friends and great food.

From About Georgia:

“Georgia is an amazing cluster of cultures, religions, fascinating landscapes and ancient history. The country where everyone can find something to his liking – from snowy peaks to subtropical shores, from deserts to lush forests, from cities to enchanting villages. Ethnic Georgians constitute a majority of the population. The official language is Georgian, one of the oldest languages in the world. Tbilisi is the capital and by far the largest city.”

“Georgian cuisine uses well familiar products but due to varying proportions of its obligatory ingredients such as walnut, aromatic herbs, garlic, vinegar, red pepper, pomegranate grains, barberries and other spices combined with the traditional secrets of the chef ‘s art the common products do acquire a special taste and aroma, which make Georgian cuisine very popular and unique.”

“The Georgian table is conducted in a wise manner in accordance with the ancient ritual. The head of the table “tamada” is elected as proposed by the host. The tamada must be a man of humour with an ability for improvisation and a philosopher’s wisdom. If there are many guests at the table he appoints assistants who in Georgian are called “tolumbashis”. The tamada’s toasts follow one another in a strict never violated order. The guest is obliged to listen attentively to each toast and appreciate the beauty of style and the purpot of the worlds said. If is not allowed to interrupt the tamada when he is saying the toats. The tamada’s assistants and other guests may only add something to the toast or develop its ideas. If you wish to say a toast, you must by all means have the tamada’s consent or else you will find yourself in an awkward position. This table ritual does not put restraints on the guests but maintains discipline at the table. The feast proceeds among jokes and is accompanied by a dance competition, table songs and music, quotations and aphorisms from the works of poets and writers.”

The vendors add to this with the dedication to product and craft.  People who attend take part with enthusiasm, as if like children in a candy store, exuding good moods, chatting and smiling all the way.  All in all, the market has a festive atmosphere with music, food, good company and the prospect of preparing the wares later on.  Every week I meet old friends and their dependable produce, but there are always one or two new vendors that add to the mix.  For me, it is a safe haven in an uncertain world.

One of the new vendors is Sun Grown Organics micro greens and edible flowers.  I was pleasantly surprised to see the colorful tables full of culinary gems.  I began filling bags with a bevy of different greens, flowers and sprouts.

In addition to the expected varieties, there were micro red perilla (shiso), fennel, popcorn sprouts, batchelor button flowers and  pink petals.

Roots Kind Foods was there again this week.  I picked up a couple of wraps to go with the micro green salad for lunch.  After closing their café in OB (Ocean Beach) they have made a name for themselves at farmers markets around San Diego.

Mariella from Guanni chocolates has started selling truly incredible vegan chocolate bars.  Good enough to sway even those who normally shy away from chocolate.

Phil from Sage Mountain Farms had giant butternut squashes to compliment his always full display.  He asked me to save the seeds and bring them back because he wanted to share the few squashes he had and it is a  especially sweetvariety that is hard to get.  I am still buying his organic strawberry jam that is out of this world.

La Milpa Organica is one of the most consistent booths at the market.  Every week one can find the tables overflowing with an abundance of greens, from amaranth to sorrel.  There are also multiple varieties of fresh herbs such a multiple varieties of mint, dill, fennel, sage and lavender.

Lone Oak Ranch had beautiful pomegranates, fuyu persimmons, fuji apples and fresh pressed pomegranate juice.  The juice is naturally sweet and very refreshing unlike the pre-sweetened store bought varieties

The OB Peoples Food Co-op has been a solid bastion of organic awareness for many years.  It is one of the best food co-ops I have seen and have shopped there since coming to San Diego six years ago.  Running around and in need of a late lunch, I decided to swing by and try the restaurant on the second floor for the first time.  It is a simple operation with counter service and food sold by the pound.  Purchasing tastes of sesame tofu and mock chicken salad along with an avocado club sandwich, I was taking a quick-stop road-food approach and was not disappointed with my healthy vegan choices.  The sesame tofu was sauteed with toasted sesame oil, thinly sliced green bell peppers and hulled sesame seeds.  Surprisingly subtle in flavor, it was a pleasure to taste.  The mock chicken salad is made with minced seitan, celery, onions and soynaise.   The flavor was also balanced without too many onions, a common mistake.  The best dish was the avocado club.  The bread was fresh with a good California avocado, Fakin’ Bakin’, lettuce and cucumber.  The textures and flavors came together in a very gratifying way. The meal was just what I needed, energizing me to continue errands.

http://www.obpeoplesfood.coop/

My father had clipped an article from the paper about the Athens Market Taverna on F street in downtown San Diego.  A Greek peasant at heart, he is always looking for a taste of Greece, an interaction, or even an opportunity to use a Greek word or two.  Reminiscent of the movie “My Big Fat Greek Wedding,” he uses Greek words with waiters of any nationality for the rare chance that a word or phrase may be understood.  This acts as a gateway to a warm banter that usually charms the unwitting recipient.  Accompanied with emphatic hand gestures, the wait person usually figures out what he wants with only occasional food order mistakes.  The article said that owner Mary Pappas’ ninety-one year old mother still makes the Kourabiethes cookies at the restaurant.  This was a sure sign of authenticity.

We arrived at the restaurant and my father entered, walking with and waving his cane instead of the usual walker (his Greek pride got the better of him). Mary’s nephew Niko, greeted us at the table, my father offered him to sit with us and he did.  Unfortunately, he did not know much Greek, but gave us the story of the whole family.  His Yai Yia, Soula, was actually 91 and really did make the cookies.  She had four daughters, all of whom own restaurants in the San Diego area. This one was the original “istiatorio” started by Mary after emigrating from Greece in 1961. The family was originally from the Peloponnese peninsula and retain strong connections there.

 

We were there for an early dinner, so Niko had time to speak with us.  The exchange was warm and genuine with doses of friendly Greek hospitality. Niko excused himself when our first course arrived: Tiropites, phyllo and cheese triangles.  Nicely presented and well balanced the only thing lacking was an edge that a sheep or goat cheese would impart. The rest of the meal came out promptly.  My father had his favorite Avgolemono soupa and I had a salad, followed by a vegetarian Moussaka that we shared. The soup was a little salty but the elder Greek deftly dipped his bread to balance that out.  The salad had good, fresh greens and Moussaka was nicely seasoned while being balanced with green beans, potatoes and rice.  It was pleasant meal that evoked childhood memories of Greek relatives and gatherings.  Mary arrived at the end of the meal as we polished of the delectable hand crafted Kourabiethes (toasted almond cookies dusted with powdered sugar).  A Greek beauty in both looks and personality, she gave my father the opportunity to unleash his Hellenic core.  She tried to persuade him to have a shot of Ouzo or Metaxa brandy, but he turned it down claiming it would not be good with his medicines.  Her response was “mother is 91 and does not take any medications—why should she?—she feels good!”  My father rapped his knuckles on the table in true Greek style coming back with an emphatic “bravo!” Thus the banter continued for fifteen to twenty minutes, a long time in a restaurant that had become busy.  When Greeks meet this way, the friendship is timeless and without fears or boundaries.  Expressing oneself through the generosity of food, wine and conversation is a national pastime and important part of a zest for life that is unique to Greece.  Reluctantly, we said our goodbyes to Mary and Niko walked my father out to the curb while I pulled up the car.  For us, the food was good, but the real gem was the warmth and enthusiasm both during and after service.  It was a true taste of Greece.

My father and I in Crete in front of a restaurant that specialized in wild harvested vegetable dishes

Marci and Allen invited us to dine with them last week.  Allen worked at Inn Season Cafe for years as my trusted dining room manager and has spent the last decade as dining room manager at the Zodiac Cafe in Neiman Marcus.  Marci, Allen’s long time friend, is a talented graphic artist and designer who saved the day many times when we needed help at Inn Season Cafe.  She has worked with me many times since, designing recipe greeting cards and providing “Vanna White” style assistance at my cooking classes. (Of course I am kidding J She’s a fantastic assistant!).  At Whole Foods:

We have remained good friends, enjoying the old stories, keeping up with the new and having great laughs over the human ironies in the restaurant business.  

Anita’s Kitchen has been in Troy, Michigan for decades.  Anita opened one of the first Lebanese restaurants in the northern suburbs of Detroit as well as spawning a number of others over the years with her own ventures and extended family.  My father and my son, Spyros used to regularly eat at Anita’s—to the point of everyone knowing them on a first name basis.  The food was consistent and inexpensive, but there were better quality Lebanese places around.  Allen wanted to try out the latest venture in Ferndale recently opened by Anita’s daughter and son-in-law and we all agreed without high expectations.  We met there on a rainy Friday evening and found a nicely designed and well laid out restaurant with covered outdoor seating and crowds of people—a good sign.  We started by sharing the vegetarian platter for 2 to 4 , a mezzes style appetizer one finds almost every Lebanese restaurant.  It is a large platter with hummus, tabouli, babaghanouj, felafels, stuffed grape leaves, laban and fresh pickles.  This version was excellent.  Noticeable, were the nicely seasoned grape leaves.  Everything tasted fresh and balanced and did not contain the exorbitant amounts of garlic often found in other restaurants.  While the menu had many normal Lebanese offerings, Anita’s of Ferndale has a number of different dishes that caught my interest such as pita bread pizzas, a variety of salads and a good list of specials.  We all opted for an artichoke pie from the specials list.  Made with a layered phyllo pastry like the Greek spinach pie, it was excellent.  I had the dinner version and my only complaint that the pie was served with rice and tabouli. Tabouli is often served as an appetizer and we had just finished the platter where it complimented the hummus and babaghanouj. The third of my plate that contained tabouli thus remained untouched and wasted.  Service was surprisingly attentive and we did not have to “take charge” of our meal as so often occurs in today’s dining scene.  The evening was spent regaling each other with stories, laughing, and enjoying the company of good friends.  A great evening and a wonderful dining experience.  

One of the latest small vegetarian restaurants to open in San Diego is Roots Cafe.  It is literally a hole in the wall establishment with a nicely appointed order window.  Tables and chairs are on the sidewalk adjacent to parking meters…but this is OB, a funky and down home surfer town still embracing its late 60′s heyday. Roots Organic Cafe is a vegetarian spot, fitting nicely among the tourist shops, surf shops, trinket boutiques, antique stores and tattoo parlors.  We ordered carryout for four and walked around town while waiting for the food to be assembled. Anticipation escalated as we took the obligatory 20 minute drive (here, everything takes twenty minutes).  We opened the biodegradable and recyclable containers to see four beautifully fresh sandwich wraps garnished with organic salad greens, sliced beets and fresh flowers.  The Thai peanut and soy chicken wrap was very good.  The Burrito was fresh and flavorful but lacked zip while the artichoke sandwich was simply delicious.  The Green Wrap was intriguing, a fresh collard green with avocado, lettuce and soaked bulgur wheat.  Prices were very reasonable, 7.50 for and full size wrap, making it a good alternative for a quick lunch.  We are looking forward to the next OB junket.

Politically incorrect seashell shop down the street from Roots.

One of our regular haunts in San Diego is Jyoti Bihanga restaurant in Normal Heights.  We go for the fresh salads, Neat Loaf and consistent vegetarian fare.  The restaurant is run by followers of Sri Chimnoy, the recently departed guru known for a positive outlook,weightlifting and concerts where he performed using up to 80 instruments.  The atmosphere at the restaurant is airy and peaceful with sari and kirta-clad servers serving throngs of yoga practitioners, saddhu wannabees and plant-based foodies.  We have menu favorites and the experience is generally good, in spite of sometimes spacey service.  This evening, we were in the mood for something different and decided to chance the evening special.  I ordered the “beef” stroganoff and a carrot juice.  The carrot juice that was served tasted of fresh garlic cloves.  Juicing garlic is popular in certain cleansing fasts, but the problem is that garlic permeates the entire juicer no matter how many carrots follow it. Overpowered by the stinking rose, I promptly sent it back and set about enjoying the house salad with tahini dressing.  The salads at Jyoti Bihanga are served French style with grated fresh beets and grated carrots side by side on butter lettuce.  They are delightfully fresh, creating anticipation for the main course.  When the stroganoff was served, my heart sank.  Pasty noodles topped with a splotch of grey mushroom gravy and two little pieces of mock”beef”.  The flavor was not any better with a somewhat soapy combination of nutmeg and summer savory.  It is rare that I cannot politely consume food, but this was the exception.  Sara was a champ and switched dishes with me.  She plucked away at the sometimes elusive slippery noodles while I did justice to her Thai peanut and vegetable stirfry, which was pleasantly balanced and quite edible.  As we battled with the stroganoff, we noticed the waiter had disappeared for most of the meal.  Just as we finished our last morsels, he appeared with the carrot juice, mumbling something about having to wash out the entire juicer.  The juice tasted fresh, but was not a good substitute for dessert.  Un-cleared plates were on the table for some time before the check was received and we left thinking Neat Loaf carry-outs will work for future dinners from Jyoti Bihanga. 

It was a blustery rainy day in autumn and the weather was starting to change from cool to icy. We found ourselves on the eastside in Grosse Pointe cruising for a late lunch, so we stopped at The Sprout House, a small natural food grocery and deli. Our expectations were simple and we knew the food was trustable—good organic ingredients and vegetarian oriented. Sara and I ordered the Mediterranean Lentil Soup, Lemony Petit French Lentil Soup, a Mediterranean Tofu Sandwich and a Carrot-Apple-Ginger Juice. Everything was flavorful and balanced with not too much garlic, herb or oil as is often the case in commercial food. The lentil soups were distinct with the Mediterranean Lentil thick and rich with tomato while the French Lentil had just enough lemon and herb to satiate. The sandwich had a vegan black olive mayo, baked tofu patty and fresh organic greens on organic Avalon Bakery bread. Easy to eat, good flavor and great texture made for a very enjoyable sandwich. We sat down at one of two small tables in the front of the store to enjoy the food. The affable server brought my carrot-apple-ginger juice to us. It was great—freshly made and thirst-quenching. During previous visits with friends, the small dining area was a social hub for the neighborhood. Times like these remind me that the Detroit area has a wonderfully vibrant and aware community. The Sprout House in Grosse Pointe Park has been in business since 1980 when Bonnie Breidenbach first opened it. Just before we opened Inn Season Café, Bonnie outbid my offer for the Yellow Bean Cafe, a hole in the wall soy foods deli on Mack, where she started teaching about and serving Macrobiotic foods. After a couple of moves and a few other owners, The Sprout House became a neighborhood institution. Camaraderie between Inn Season Cafe and The Sprout House was always there, especially when second owner Muriel had it. We shared employees, stories and took care of each other. Today, it was encouraging to see the standards of health and organics still being maintained by the current owners. I applaud their efforts and it is worth a stop when in the area.

Go there!

The Sprout House 15233 Kercheval St, Grosse Pointe Park Michigan 48230 Tel: 313-331-3200

Sara and I had lunch at Inn Season Cafe on Friday.  We do not get there as often as we like, our life in Birmingham seems far away even though it is only five miles.  The food was excellent.  I had a wonderfully fresh carrot-apple-ginger juice with a flavorful potato-dill soup.  Sara had the chili, good as always.  We shared the Barbecued Seitan Sandwich and found it to be balanced, without the rubbery texture wheat gluten often has.  The service was great, especially since we were doted on by our longtime friends Jenny, Amber and Jennifer.  It has been over five years since we sold the Cafe and it is exciting to see the restaurant well run, busy and successful.  Kudos to Chef Thomas and Nick for keeping it up as a vibrant centerpiece in the Royal Oak restaurant community.  

I am currently mulling over the final edits of the Inn Season Cookbook (working title) and look forward to the day when it is for sale at the restaurant and bookstores. After all these years there is light at the end of the tunnel!  The book covers the the period from when we first opened the cafe in 1981 to when I sold it in July, 2002.  

Inn Season Cafe

500 East Fourth Street, Royal Oak, MI 48067

Tel: 248-547-7916