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How to Shop at a Farmers Market
Nov 11
Each week, Sunday mornings begin with great anticipation. I look forward to the communion with the earth and people directly connected with it, as well as the discoveries to be had. First thing I do is make sure my empty grocery bags are packed. Upon arrival, I walk the full length of the market to see what has grown and been stocked in the various stalls I frequent. Beginning at the end of the market, I work my way back, stall by stall.

This week, I started with Sun Grown Organics, buying a variety of micro-greens like shiso leaves, arugula, sorrel and celery.

I also purchased baby popcorn shoots that are sweet, almost candy-like and a variety of micro blossoms, including marigolds, carnation petals and chives. There was also a red-tinted okra and a bright reddish-orange Turkish eggplant, something I had never seen before.

As I peruse the stalls, potential menus and cooking ideas are formulating in my head, often helped along by speaking with the farmers and getting their experiences first hand. Frequently customers contribute and we enter into lively and informative discussions about the fruits and vegetables we are handling, sniffing and admiring. Barry Koral was sharing his extensive knowledge of live foods with many customers today, describing how to eat a ripe persimmon—“gently break the pointed top with teeth and suck out the ripe nectar.” Some people I know use a spoon for a daintier approach. Barry picked out some perfectly ripe figs and a chermoya (custard apple) that was just right for slicing into. He also had a first harvest of Fuerte avocados prominently displayed in front of dwindling Reed and Haas varieties.

Phil at Sage Mountain Farm was describing the economics of small organic farming. He said it is a constant struggle to do anything but grow food on his land. Laying fallow is not an option when the cost of ownership is so high. He has found it is more economical to lease land, than to own and he is weighing heavily whether to expand to allow greater flexibility, or to keep it small and personally manageable. During the conversation, he presented a baby Hubbard squash that I look forward to cooking and trying. Hubbard is one of the best squashes for pumpkin pies. I also grabbed some cippolini onions (wonderful!), baby Italian Rosa eggplant and Ichibon Japanese eggplant, which I plan to grill in a day or two.

By the time I get halfway through the market, I have 3 bags mostly full. If I found a good parking spot, I often take them to the car to ease up on the final leg, especially if I am lugging heavy produce like melons or squash. Another option is to have a companion come along to share the load, but with me, they often find that carrying these loads weighs down their market experience. I do not get as many volunteers as I used to. For me, the market is part of the cooking process and it helps formulate how we eat for the remainder of the week.
Arriving home, I am careful to unload the produce, especially when there are ripe persimmons, chermoyas, figs and grapes. I never refrigerate tomatoes and make sure the greens are moist in the roots, sometimes wrapping them with damp paper towels. Taking care to store the bounty of the market will insure continued outstanding quality in raw ingredients–this translates into wonderful cooked food. As many great chefs know, quality ingredients are one of the secrets of creating dishes that amaze and satiate. Farmers Markets have become extensions of their kitchens.







